6 wines from iconic and excting Beaujolais producers across many of its communes from Moulin a Vent, Morgon & Fleurie.
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Jean Foillard Morgon ‘Eponym’ Charmes 2020
Morgon from Foillard shows wonderfully fresh, pure aromas of cherries and blackberries combined with a haunting, otherworldly complexity that is distinctly Foillard; you can almost smell through them. In the mouth, again there’s a wonderful transparency. Crunchy, fresh fruit is complemented by a satiny, silky structure and some delicate spice.
Elegant, soft, smooth and pure. This cuvée comes from the Charmes lieu-dit, one of the highest parcels in Morgon. In contrast to the grandiose, deeply structured Côte du Py and silky-smooth ‘Corcelette’, this cuvée features a bit more crunch with lots of bright acidity showing damson and cranberry and a leaner, more mineral profile. It nonetheless shares the satin texture and latent power of all Foillard Morgons.
Jean Foillard Morgon ‘Corcelette’ 2020
Morgon from Foillard shows wonderfully fresh, pure aromas of cherries and blackberries combined with a haunting, otherworldly complexity that is distinctly Foillard; you can almost smell through them. In the mouth, again there’s a wonderful transparency. Crunchy, fresh fruit is complemented by a satiny, silky structure and some delicate spice. Elegant, soft, smooth and pure.
‘Corcelette’ is fruit from 80-year-old vines in Morgon - the 'younger' vines of his Côte du Py. It’s considered to produce wines a little more delicate than the rest of Morgon, and shows a beautiful violet perfume alongside the characteristic mineral tone to all of his wines. It’s vibrant and does interact well with oxygen so be patient on opening as it’s still young. Will age beautifully, but to drink now will put you into orbit no problemo.
Jules Desjourneys Moulin a Vent ‘Au Michelon’ 2014
Fabien Duperray bought 7 hectares of vines throughout Beaujolais crus at the age of 43, rather than put his own name on the label he called his domaine ‘Jules Desjourneys’ – Jules after the late, great Beaujolais vigneron Jules Chauvet, and Desjourneys “because I liked how it sounded next to Jules”. Duperray is certified organic yet tends to his vines, which are all older than 65 years, with biodynamic practices. How it benefits the wine in his words, “it’s about the aesthetic of the wine, not the yields – that’s what I work for.”
Moulin-à-Vent, oft considered the “King of Beaujolais Cru,” from older vines within ‘Les Michelons’. Little to no oak, elevate is in concrete and glass. It’s strawberries and violets, mushrooms and a waft of spice. Dense yet lovely and pretty, very well structured, savoury, long and layered. drink it now, decant it first though!
Jane Eyre Fleurie 2020
In 2021, Jane became the first woman, and the first Australian, to win a coveted ‘winemaker of the year’ award from French magazine La Revue du Vin de France, her wines can be found in the most prestigious restaurants and wine stores across the globe. 100% whole bunch from 30 and 100-year old vines with 10 days on skins. It has light red cherry and bergamot aromas with a zingy and austere finish, very Fleurie, with just the right touch of acidity.
Julie Balagny Fleurie Cayenne 2020
Cayenne is made with grapes from Julie's younger vines in Fleurie. The vines are 35 and 40 years old. The soils are made up mainly of granite and basalt, with the remainder pink granite and quartz 5 weeks carbonic maceration, then raised in old barrels for 10 months. Not fined or filtered. Zero SO2 at any stage, it's so unique. Dark roses emerge to the forefront. Gentle tart acidity and the texture is deep. Can be a drinking wine yes, but this is a nice meal wine to really study.
Julie Balagny VDF 'B....ais' 2020
From one hectare of Beaujolais villages vines in the commune of Émeringes planted in 1956. The joy of this wine is in its simplicity, the beautiful aromatics, generous black fruits and a soft, silky texture that make it a real joy to drink in its youth. It’s a medium red with violet edges. Big whiff of blueberries and red roses, wild herbs and flowers. It’s deep but at the same time, pretty. A little bit of exotic perfume. To taste it is silky and clean, packed with flavour as per usual. Lots of mid palate weight. Unctuous and creamy. Medium acidity that is very gently tart. The wine is simple, but deep. Sweet fruit, loads of flavour, and gentle extract. A touch of Campari. Chewy tannins on the finish – not powerful, but present. Really, really good.