Trousseau, Poulsard, Pinot Noir, Savagnin, Chardonnay. 6 Wines from exciting producers, from one of the world's most thought provoking regions. 1 bottle of each.
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Damien Courbet Chateau Chalon Vin Jaune 2015
Founded in 1869, this family-run estate, like most during that time, was originally structured on a poly-culture model; vines, grain and livestock. It gradually evolved to producing only grapes and wine over the last 50 years and is now run by Jean-Marie (father) and Damien (son) Courbet.
Since 2005, the Courbets have been farming biodynamically and the estate is currently in transition to organic certification. Château-Chalon is a purely Vin Jaune AOC. This wine is yellow in colour with shades of gold. It’s powerful and robust showing hazelnut, almond, truffle and curry. The soil in which the grapes are grown for this wine provide it with a delicate and mineral elegance. Overall it’s a mature, yet subtle Chateau Chalon. Brilliant.
Lulu Vigneron ‘Sous le Cerisier’ Chardonnay 2018
Ludwig Bindernagel and Nathalie Eigenschenck started their journey into wine in 2000 with the purchase of ‘Les Chais du Vieux Bourg’ (now Lulu Vigneron) in 2000. Ludwig’s motto “the wine is made in the vineyard” is exemplified by the fact he works with the vines every day. He has a completely natural approach to wine making with a dedication to a non-interventionism and an affinity for making wine in a traditional style. He only takes the best clusters during selections, and uses almost mad pruning techniques to keep yields as low as possible. Ludwig’s fermentations are done at very low temperatures, lengthening the process for up to two years. This helps create very complex wines with depth and layers.
‘Sous le Cerisier’ or ‘Under the Cherry tree’ 100% Chardonnay from southern exposed sited in Poligny and Arlay under the Cotes du Jura AOC from 30-55 year old vines planted on marl soils. The wine is matured in old barrels for 13 months before bottling and barrels are topped the whole time. The wine is detailed but savoury, there’s hints of brioche, orchard fruit and almonds. Creamy palate with a chalky mineral finish.
Domaine Ratte Savagnin ‘Naturé’ 2020
Wife/husband duo Françoise Ratte and Michel Henri farm vineyards that have been in Françoise’s family for generations. In 2015 they broke free of fruit-selling contracts her family had been bound by, not an easy feat considering you are usually signed for life here, and started making wine for themselves from some of the best terroirs in Arbois. They have been working their vines organically with biodynamic principles since 1989. Vine ages are between 20-80 years old, and a small parcel of 100 year old Savagnin in Pré Levront planted by Françoise’s great grandfather. ‘Naturé’, the old school name of Savagnin, all fruit from the Pré Levront vineyard. The vines used for this cuvée are mostly 20 years old, but a small part is from the 100 year-old planting. Needs some oxygen to allow the reduction to unfurl, and when it does it’s a great balanced Savagnin, with lovely juicy acidity and a core of Arbois minerality.
Domaine de la Touraize Poulsard ‘La Cabane’ 2020
André-Jean Morin is an 8th generation grower, and his family is one of the oldest and most well known in Arbois. They have been growing grapes in the village since the early 1700's. AJ took the reins in 1985, selling grapes as his family had done; It wasn't until 2010 that he decided he wanted to start making wine himself, and so he sold 3ha and used the money to build a winery. At this point he also started converting all the vineyards to organic. They use biodynamic preparations in the vineyards, and are obsessed with soil health and creating a biodiverse environment. ‘La Cabane’ is Ploussard from 30-50 year old vines growing on grey marl. Lots of red roses, it’s so pretty and light. There’s some hidden spices and delicate perfume, slippery seems to describe the sensation best. There are the finest tannins, and you may not notice them. Becomes quite mineral on the nose as it opens up. Sweet delicate fruits, red berries, red roses, and just so easy to drink.
Lucien Aviet et Fils ‘Cuvée des Géologues 313 Jours’ Trousseau 2017
Caveau de Bacchus was established in 1960 by the late Lucien Aviet, after inheriting a plot of land intended for vines from his parents. It is primarily now run by his son Vincent. 35 year old Trousseau vines from his Nonceau plot. 313 days maceration in barrel. 'Cuvée des Géologues' refers to the geologists who helped Lucien select the best terroirs. Best enjoyed opened an hour or two before serving, to allow for the florals and spice to unfurl. There’s some red fruits and fine tannins, great with lamb, duck, game etc.
Anne & Jean Francois Ganevat ‘Sur La Cote’ Pinot Noir 2020
Jean François Ganevat is one of the benchmark vignerons of the Jura region. Based in La Combe; a tiny hamlet above the village of Rotalier, “Fan Fan” Jean-François Ganevat came back to run the family estate in 1998 after ten years working Burgundy and he combines his passion for Jura terroir with Burgundian techniques, low yields and biodynamic farming for which he has Demeter certification. Coveted the world over for their otherworldly clarity and precision, the wines are vivid and vibrant and made in painfully small quantities. They stand as a beacon of quality and craftsmanship in the natural wine world. ‘Sur La Cote’ is Pinot Noir from 40-year-old vines in Arbois, it’s deep and rich. Think black cherry, smoke, liquorice with some savoury, herbal depth adding to its complexity. Zero So2, benefits hugely from some air before drinking.